Swimming with the Whale Sharks was my one big splurge for this trip – and as splurges go it was worth it because these are endangered species and rumor has it that this is the last year that getting in the water with them will be allowed here. I understand why after being part of the chaos that ensued as part of the process. While I’m ever-so-glad I did it, it was frenetic. It’s only after the fact that I can look back and realize what an amazing experience it was. The reason it is so managed has to do with the balancing of government regulations with the need for tour operators to make a profit. It’s rather a classic example of the precarious relationship between the environment, profit and the man’s insatiable hunger to experience something more. And this was definitely in the “something more” category.
More on the chaos in a minute, but first – to these gorgeous, docile creatures who bear little resemblance to their toothier cousins – the Great White. Tiburon Baleena in Spanish, these gentle giants are baleen or filter feeders and have no interest in people-eating. That’s a good thing, since they have cavernous mouths that could easily swallow a man whole – giving credence to the myth of Jonah and the Whale. It’s hard to imagine the immensity of these fish: 47,000 pounds and the largest measured at 41 feet in length. It’s a bit daunting to be in the water with one of them, let alone a school of them. So when I remembered that they migrate along the Yucatan coast from May – September, I knew I had to do this NOW.
A total of 10 boats just with our tour company were headed out. I lost count of how many others I saw loading up. That’s 10 boats, each with 10 people… do the math. That was the second reality check announcing that this would not be the Zen experience I had envisioned. As we were the last of the boats to leave, it looked like the great Exodus as the boats spread across the horizon trailing deep wakes as we sped to open sea. The first task was to find where the sharks are feeding and in that respect it’s a little like lion or elephant spotting on a Ugandan safari. An hour later (we were lucky) we arrived at a site with other boats who had found an unsuspecting loner. Location depends on where the plankton is found and that depends on currents and water temperature. The waters of the Atlantic and Caribbean come together to make for ideal conditions just north of Isla de Mujeres so that’s where we found them. Sometimes the hunt goes on for hours before a pod is found. In this picture, all those little spots in the background are food – plankton. I didn’t have an underwater camera and frankly, had I had a one, the dive was so fast paced that I don’t think I would have had the presence of mind to take pictures. Government regulations require that you enter the water with a guide and no more than two people at a time can be with that guide. The guide was helpful in part because it all happens so fast that if you don’t have someone helping direct your focus and movement the first few times, the shark will be gone before you realize what happened. The guides are also there to be sure divers respect the creatures, don’t get too close, don’t touch, etc. Along with other rules like “no sunscreen” etc. to keep from introducing chemicals into the water they take in – these regs are to protect both fish and people. If you happen to be smacked by the tail of a 22 ton fish – well it’s a caress you’ll likely not forget. Anyway, all that humanity in the water clamoring to look at the same few creatures – has to stress the animals. It also takes some of the pleasure out of the experience; but again, that fact fades into the noise when you consider what an extraordinary gift it is to be able to be in the water with primordial creatures. Just amazing.
My first time in the water we were deposited right at the mouth of the shark and the size of it is just mesmerizing making it almost impossible to get yourself moving to keep up with it. Regardless of the fact that these are essentially eaters of plankton and small fish, instinct takes over in the water and it literally takes your breath away to be near the open mouth of one of these fellas. Note the relative size of the divers and the mouth. While they move pretty slowly (about 2.4 miles an hour), it’s a hustle to keep up with them. Moving that speed on land is nothing, but in the water it takes some energy and if you want to swim along side, you’ve got to really got to put on the steam. They are so beautiful and showed absolutely no aggressiveness toward snorkelers.
Why the rush to get people in and out, on and off? The government regulates time in the area per boat – 3 hours – and they are clocked by call in times. Combined with the rules dictating the ratio of divers/guide, tour companies want to make money and keep costs low enough that folks will pay. Consequently, they fill up the boat instead of taking fewer people and charging more. So there it is. It reminds me of how fortunate we were all those years ago to experience the islands with just the kids and not a whole horde of other people – i.e. tourists. Now – I’m one of those tourists – but still lucky to have the chance no matter what.
